The Science Behind the Strike: Advanced Lure Selection and Physics

Most anglers fish by feel and intuition, relying on what worked last time or what the guy at the tackle shop recommended. There’s nothing wrong with this approach—it catches fish. But understanding the science behind why lures work—the physics of their movement, the biology of fish vision, and the ecology of matching the hatch—can elevate your fishing from good to exceptional.

Let’s delve into the advanced concepts that distinguish experienced anglers from true students of the sport.

The Science of Color: What Fish Actually See

The old debates about lure color—whether fish care, which colors work best, if it even matters—can finally be settled with science. Fish do see color, but not the way we do, and understanding this difference is crucial.

How Fish Vision Works

Fish eyes are fundamentally similar to ours, but they are adapted for underwater environments. Most game fish have cone cells (for color vision) and rod cells (for low-light vision), but the distribution and sensitivity differ from human eyes.

Key differences:

• Fish see into the ultraviolet spectrum that we can’t perceive
• Water filters light differently than air, with red wavelengths disappearing first as depth increases
• Many fish have eyes positioned for looking up (to see prey silhouetted against the sky) rather than looking down
• Turbidity (water clarity) dramatically affects what colors remain visible at a distance

The Physics of Underwater Light

When sunlight enters water, it begins losing wavelengths based on depth:

0-5 feet: All colors visible, similar to above water 5-10 feet: Red begins fading, appears brownish-gray 10-20 feet: Red is gone, orange is fading 20-30 feet: Only yellow, green, and blue remain vibrant 30+ feet: Primarily blue and green; everything else is shades of gray

This is why red lures can be so effective in shallow water (they show up as dark, high-contrast silhouettes) but become essentially invisible in deep water. A chartreuse lure maintains visibility far deeper than a red one.

Contrast Over Color

Here’s the critical insight: fish don’t necessarily see “chartreuse” or “red” the way we do. They see contrast—the difference between an object and its background.

In clear water with bright light, Natural colors with subtle contrast work best because fish can scrutinize lures. Think natural shad patterns, translucent plastics, and realistic paint schemes.

In stained water, High-contrast colors become essential. Chartreuse, bright white, and black create strong silhouettes that fish can detect through murky water. The actual “color” matters less than whether it stands out against the background.

In low light: Dark colors (black, purple, dark blue) create the strongest silhouettes against the lighter sky above. This is why black jigs work so well in early morning or evening—they’re basically a dark cutout against the ambient light.

UV and Fluorescence

Many baitfish have scales that reflect ultraviolet light, creating a flash that fish are specifically adapted to see. This is why UV-enhanced lures and fluorescent colors can be so effective—they’re tapping into a wavelength that fish are naturally tuned to detect.

Fluorescent colors work by absorbing ultraviolet light and re-emitting it as visible light, making them appear to “glow” underwater even in low-light conditions. This is particularly effective in stained water where normal colors become muted.

Practical Color Selection Based on Science

Ultra-clear water (5+ feet visibility):

• Natural, translucent colors
• Match the primary forage color
• Subtle, realistic patterns
• Green pumpkin, watermelon, natural shad, bone

Clear water (3-5 feet visibility):

• Natural colors with some contrast
• Pearl, white, silver (shad imitators)
• Natural browns and greens (crawfish/bluegill)

Stained water (1-3 feet visibility):

• Bright, high-contrast colors
• Chartreuse, bright white, orange
• Two-tone combinations (black/chartreuse, black/blue)
• Colors that create strong silhouettes

Muddy water (less than 1 foot visibility):

• Maximum contrast colors
• Black (darkest silhouette)
• Bright chartreuse or white (lightest silhouette)
• Forget subtle—visibility is everything

Depth considerations:

• Shallow (0-10 feet): All colors work; match conditions
• Medium (10-20 feet): Avoid reds and oranges; use yellow, green, blue, white
• Deep (20+ feet): Stick with chartreuse, white, blue, and black for contrast